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Floor Sanding FAQs

Floor Sanding FAQ’s

Should I decorate or do the floor sanding first?

This basically boils down to whether you are more precious about your walls or your floors. Ideally for us, we would suggest completing any sanding process prior to a room being decorated as inevitably the floor sanders will leave the odd mark on the skirting board. (These marks can easily be touched up at a later date.) Unfortunately, though, if we do the floor first it is not uncommon for decorators to mark the floor, either with paint (some dust sheets are quite porous) or with step-ladders. As our floor sanders have very good dust extraction, there is little chance of any dust getting into the paintwork, so the choice is usually driven by who is available first to start their respective task.

How long does it take to sand a floor?

Generally speaking, no matter how large the job, any floor sanding task will take a minimum of a day’s work. This is because, once sanded, three finishing coats have to be applied and each has to dry before the following one can be applied.

Will it be very dusty?

With our dust-free sanders there is very little dust to contend with (it is actually possible to operate them without the use of a dust mask). Unfortunately, cheap self-hire sanders with poor dust extraction have given sanding a bad name. Our modern machines, however, capture up to 98% of dust particles. The only exception to this is when sanding stairs, where it is a lot harder to contain the dust.

Are you able to move concrete hearths?

We routinely remove concrete hearths and infill with reclaimed wood. This is most prevalent in your average Victorian terrace where the rooms have been knocked through. There is no longer the need for two fireplaces and householder often try to maximise the space available. In most circumstances, we can achieve a good result by extending the existing joists and fitting reclaimed wood over the top.

Is it possible to make the floor lighter or darker?

It is considerably easier to make a floor go darker than lighter. We use a selection of oil-based stains to achieve this – from Medium Oak to Jacobean Oak and Walnut. We find that if the stain is too light many floors will go orange, which in some people’s minds is unsightly.
To achieve a lighter finish, we normally lime wash the floor. This is a mixture of water and paint applied, with three coats of lacquer on top.

When will my floors need doing again?

Generally, provided the floors are well maintained, they should not need redoing for over 10 years. If you do however ,wear outdoor shoes inside, have pets or young children, the chances are they might not last as long. If you have a gravel drive, grit can be picked up from shoes and brought inside; equally, dragging furniture across a floor will rapidly cause damage.

Do the floor finishes give off an odour?

We use a solvent filler if gaps are being filled. We use this product primarily because it is the toughest on the market and the type most likely to remain in the gaps. There are water-based alternatives, although these are not as good. For the finishes we use water-based lacquers which are the industry standard. Hardeners can be added to these products for heavy traffick areas. Oil finishes are based on vegetable oils and waxes, and are consequently fairly odourless.

How do I keep my floors looking good?

We recommend putting felt pads on chairs or furniture if they are likely to damage the floor. A good exterior door mat is always helpful, as is an internal one. Stiletto heels will readily mark any floor so these are to be avoided, if possible. It is also worth bearing in mind that floors will change colour if exposed to a large amount of UV light. Day- to-day cleaning and the odd maintenance product will prolong the good looks of your floor.

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